Ronda, Setenil & Júzcar - Bridges, Caves & Smurfs
Swapping the Mediterranean breeze of Nerja for the rugged romance of Andalusia’s highlands makes for a striking change of scenery — and one that’s surprisingly close. Just around two hours by car, the journey from Nerja to Ronda is a beautiful drive through changing landscapes: coastal plains give way to rolling hills, olive groves, vineyards, and ancient stone villages clinging to the cliffs.
Ronda: History in the Heights
Few places in Spain feel as cinematic as Ronda. One of the oldest towns in the country, its roots stretch back to the Celts and Romans, and its strategic cliff-top location made it a stronghold through the Islamic era and beyond. Today, Ronda is a town of two halves, dramatically split by the El Tajo gorge and joined by the iconic Puente Nuevo — a soaring 18th-century stone bridge that has become one of Andalusia’s most recognisable sights.
Start at the Plaza de Toros, one of the oldest bullrings in Spain, with its elegant arches and well-curated museum. Then wander through the old Moorish quarter, past ancient city walls, the Arab baths, and the charming Palacio de Mondragón, once home to a Muslim king. The views from Alameda del Tajo park and the Mirador de Ronda are breathtaking, especially at sunset when the light bathes the cliffs in gold.
Beyond the history, Ronda has a vibrant, artistic soul. The streets are filled with craft shops, traditional bakeries, and small tapas bars where time slows down. A cluster of wineries surround the town, many of them offering tastings with sweeping countryside views — Bodega Joaquín Fernández and La Melonera among the most atmospheric.
For nature lovers, the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park is close by, offering hiking trails through limestone peaks, deep gorges, and lush forests home to wild goats and soaring griffon vultures. Donkey sanctuaries dot the region as well, a delight for kids and animal lovers alike.
Ronda’s Festive Soul
If you time your visit right, Ronda’s calendar is full of traditional festivals. The Feria de Pedro Romero, held in early September, celebrates the town’s bullfighting heritage with parades, flamenco, and traditional dress. In May, Ronda Romántica transforms the streets into a 19th-century spectacle with carriages, costumes, and a return to its romantic bandolero past. These festivals bring colour, music, and life into every plaza and are well worth planning around.
A bit Further Away for Thrill Seekers
The Caminito del Rey, or "King’s Little Pathway," is a spectacular suspended walkway carved into the cliffs of the Gaitanes Gorge near El Chorro, about 60 kilometers (just over an hour’s drive) from Ronda. Originally built in the early 1900s for hydroelectric workers and inaugurated by King Alfonso XIII, it gained fame for its dizzying heights and narrow ledges. After a full renovation, it reopened in 2015 as a safe but exhilarating hike, offering dramatic views more than 100 meters above the river below. It makes for a thrilling day trip from Ronda, especially for those seeking adventure in nature.
Where to Stay in Ronda
Nerja Amigo approved- On one visit, we checked into La Perla Blanca, a peaceful countryside retreat just outside the town. With vineyard views, a charming garden, and a sweet honesty bar, it was the perfect setting for a romantic, slow-paced weekend. Another time, for a more lively celebration — a birthday getaway — we chose Hotel Catalonia Reina Victoria, perched right above the gorge. Its stunning terrace, spa, and short walking distance to the town centre made it ideal for exploring without needing the car.
Setenil de las Bodegas: A Village Under Rock
Only about 30 minutes from Ronda, Setenil de las Bodegas feels like another world. Built into the rock itself, many of its houses and shops are literally carved into massive stone overhangs that hang dramatically over narrow streets. The main draws — Calle Cuevas del Sol and Calle Cuevas de la Sombra — are filled with cafés and tiny bars shaded by nature itself.
Setenil can easily be explored in a few hours. Climb up to the modest castle ruins for panoramic views or simply enjoy a cold drink in one of the cool cave bars. It’s an ideal stop on the way to or from Ronda — surprising, photogenic, and utterly unique.
Júzcar: The Blue Village and the Road There
A short detour from Ronda, Júzcar is best known for its transformation into Spain’s “Smurf Village” — painted entirely blue in 2011 for a film promotion and never returned to white. There’s not much to do in the town itself beyond wandering the surreal blue streets and spotting Smurf murals, but the drive to Júzcar is the real treat. Winding roads cut through forested hills and mountain valleys, dotted with cork oaks, chestnut trees, and occasional glimpses of wild deer.
It’s worth the trip just for the nature — a side of Andalusia that feels untouched and untamed.
Final Thoughts
From the sun-drenched coast of Nerja to the highland drama of Ronda, Setenil’s cave streets, and the surreal charm of Júzcar, this loop through inland Málaga is a weekend that stirs the senses. Between the history, the wines, the nature, and the slow, timeless pace — it’s the kind of trip that stays with you long after you’ve unpacked.