Hiking El Cielo – Where the Horizon Feels Like Frodo’s Path
If there’s one hike around Nerja that truly makes you feel on top of the world, it’s the climb to El Cielo – “the sky.” At 1,508 metres, Pico del Cielo is the highest peak in the immediate area, and reaching the cross at the top rewards you with views you’ll never forget.
Where it Begins
Our walk started next to the Nerja Caves, just before the main entrance parking. From here, a large sign welcomes you into the Parque Natural de las Sierras de Tejeda, Almijara y Alhama. The first stretch is gentle, alternating between paved road, gravel, and flat track – easy going, with plenty of wooden posts marked with the familiar white and yellow trail signs to guide you.
👉 Tip: after around 1.5 km, at a right-hand turn in the main track, look for a small footpath on the left side. This little detour runs parallel to a dry riverbed, more scenic than the usual way, and opens up a wild and rugged canyon view that takes your breath away. Walking here feels more intimate, closer to the raw beauty of the mountains, before it rejoins the main route again.
Gaining Ground
From here, the climb starts to get steeper – zig-zagging gently at first, then with longer, more tiring stretches. After about 2 km we paused at a lookout near Tajo de los Bueyes. The moment you step to the edge, the world seems to fall away – the sparkling Mediterranean stretches endlessly, Nerja nestles below, and the mountains roll behind you. It’s the kind of view that makes you pause, smile, and silently whisper wow.
Another couple of kilometres brought us past an abandoned house without a roof, a landmark many hikers know well. From this point the path narrows and the sense of wilderness grows. The silence deepens, broken only by the rustle of bushes and, if you’re lucky, the sight of mountain goats leaping fearlessly along the cliffs.
The Final Push
As the trail winds on, the scenery becomes almost otherworldly – dramatic rock walls glowing in the sun, sudden openings revealing endless valleys, and one stunning viewpoint after another. It’s a feast for the eyes and the soul, with photo moments that barely capture what your heart feels.
For much of the climb, El Cielo itself stays a bit hidden, a mystery just often out of sight. And then, near the very end, you finally catch a glimpse of the cross. Adrenaline surges. Each step pulls you closer, even as the path turns steeper, forcing you to balance with your hands on rock like a natural ladder.
Then, almost in an instant, you’re standing at the top. Pico del Cielo. The cross rises above you, and below lies the most extraordinary panorama – the coast glimmering like a silver ribbon, the rugged folds of the sierras, and the wide horizon that makes you feel both tiny and infinite at once.
The final push feels almost like stepping into a Frodo-moment, where the landscape comes alive in a way that’s both mysterious and larger than life. Even when you walk with others, it can turn into a deeply inward journey — one where the mountains echo not just around you, but within you.
Take a deep breath. The air is cooler, the wind sharper, but the sense of achievement and freedom warms you from the inside. This is a moment to treasure.
The Way Down
Starting the descent can be a little tricky. Loose stones and sandy patches make the path slippery in places, so it’s important to keep an eye on the trail markers!!! AND take your time. Don’t underestimate it — coming down can be just as much of a challenge as the climb up. Go steady, pace yourself, and remember to sip plenty of water along the way.
Practical Tips
When to go: Avoid July and August – it’s far too hot. Spring and autumn are perfect.
What to wear: Trainers will do, but proper hiking shoes are much better.
Bring: Plenty of water, snacks or a packed lunch, sun protection, and a warmer layer for the summit.
Time: Expect a full day out, with as much effort going down as up. The descent can be slippery – follow the signs carefully and take it slow. The rough timing groups say is 4-hours up, 4-hours down. We started at 8.00 and arrived back around 15.00. But don´t rush it, it is a challenging hike!
Final Thought
Every step on the walk to Pico del Cielo offers a new perspective, a reminder to pause, breathe, and take in the beauty that surrounds you. From shifting light on the rocks to the endless views stretching to the horizon, it’s a journey where the path itself is as rewarding as the summit. Mother Nature at her very best — unforgettable, humbling, and deeply inspiring.
