Antequera – The Mountain of the Sleeping Face and Ancient Dolmens
Set in the geographical heart of Andalucía, Antequera is a town shaped by landscape, legend and deep time. Located around 95 km from Nerja, just over an hour and a half by car, it makes a rewarding full-day trip for anyone wanting to explore beyond the coast and into the interior of the region.
Antequera is not about one single sight. It’s about how everything connects.
Peña de los Enamorados – The Mountain with the Sleeping Face
One of Antequera’s most striking landmarks is the Peña de los Enamorados, a dramatic limestone mountain that dominates the plains outside the town. Seen from the right angle, its profile unmistakably resembles the face of a sleeping figure, often described locally as an Native Indian’s face.
The mountain is deeply woven into local legend. According to medieval folklore, it is named after a tragic love story between a Christian and a Muslim who chose death rather than separation. Long before this legend emerged, however, the mountain already held great symbolic importance.
Remarkably, the Dolmen of Menga is aligned directly towards the Peña de los Enamorados rather than towards the sun. This makes it one of the most extraordinary examples of prehistoric landscape symbolism in Europe and suggests a powerful spiritual connection between monument and mountain that predates written history by thousands of years.
The Dolmens of Antequera
Just outside the town lie the Dolmens of Antequera, one of the most important prehistoric archaeological sites in Europe.
The complex consists of three main monuments: the Dolmen of Menga, the Dolmen of Viera, and the Tholos of El Romeral.
Dating back more than 5,000 years, these megalithic structures were built using enormous stone slabs, some weighing many tonnes. The Dolmen of Menga is particularly impressive for its scale and engineering, with massive upright stones supporting a long, monumental chamber.
Next to the site is the Dolmens Interpretation Centre and Museum, which offers clear insight into how these structures were built, their archaeological significance and their relationship with the surrounding landscape. Visiting the museum alongside the dolmens adds depth and context to what is already a powerful experience.
The Alcazaba – Fortress with Endless Views
Rising above Antequera’s old town is the Alcazaba, a Moorish fortress built in the 14th century during the Nasrid period. It was a key defensive stronghold until Antequera was taken by Christian forces in 1410.
Walking along its walls and towers rewards visitors with incredible panoramic views. On clear days, you can see across the plains, towards El Torcal and out to the surrounding mountains. The sense of height and openness is striking, and it’s one of those places where people naturally stop, fall quiet and simply look.
Beside the Alcazaba stands the Real Colegiata de Santa María la Mayor, one of the earliest Renaissance churches built in Andalucía after the Reconquista, adding another layer of historical depth to the site.
Antequera’s Bullring
Antequera is also home to one of Spain’s oldest bullrings, built in 1848. Unlike many later circular bullrings, this one is polygonal in shape, giving it a distinctive architectural character.
Today, it stands as a historical monument reflecting an important aspect of Andalusian cultural history. Even for visitors with no interest in bullfighting, the building itself offers insight into 19th-century Spanish society and traditions.
A Town to Wander Slowly
Antequera’s historic centre is filled with churches, convents, small squares and traditional bakeries. The town is especially known for its local pastries, many of which originated in convent kitchens and are still made using long-standing recipes.
Despite its historical importance, Antequera remains very much a living town. Life moves at a steady pace, locals gather in cafés, and the atmosphere feels grounded and genuine rather than touristic.
Antequera is also a wonderful place to eat, with local dishes such as salmorejo a must-try, alongside hearty traditional cuisine rooted in olive oil, local produce and generations of Andalusian home cooking.
Why Antequera Is Worth the Journey from Nerja
Antequera brings together prehistoric monuments, legendary landscapes, Moorish fortifications and everyday Andalusian life in one place. From the sleeping face of the Peña de los Enamorados to the vast dolmens, from the fortress walls to the quiet streets below, this is a destination that invites reflection rather than rush.
Contact: Opening hours and info check out Tourism Antequera
It’s a powerful reminder that Andalucía’s story did not begin at the coast. It began deep in the land itself.
