Alpujarras - Witches Walk, Weavers Work, and Stupas Shine

 Soportújar: The Witch Village of the Alpujarras

Tucked away on the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada in Andalusia, Soportújar is a small white village with a big personality—and a reputation steeped in mystery. Known as “the village of witches,” it offers a magical escape in the heart of the Alpujarras.

Soportújar dates back to the Moorish era and was originally an agricultural village nestled among terraces and springs. After the expulsion of the Moors in the 15th century, the village was repopulated by settlers from Galicia in northern Spain. These newcomers brought with them legends of witches, meigas, and supernatural folklore—stories that eventually earned Soportújar its curious nickname and inspired the magical theme that shapes the village today.

A Village of Legends

The Galician influence and centuries of storytelling turned Soportújar into a place of enchantment. Locals embraced its witchy lore, and the village is now filled with cauldrons, dragons, and mystical sculptures that turn its cobbled streets into a fantasy world.

What to See

Witch’s Eye Cave & Enchanted Bridge: A mystical welcome to the village. The Witch Fountain & Enchantment Lookout: Statues of witches brewing potions with views of the valley. The House of Baba Yaga & Hansel and Gretel: Whimsical installations straight out of storybooks. The Wishing Well & Dream-Weaving Spider: Art and legend come alive in every corner. Traditional Alpujarran streets: Whitewashed houses, stone archways, and peaceful plazas.

Celebrations and Events

Every August, Soportújar hosts the Witchcraft Festival (Feria del Embrujo), with magical performances, storytelling, fire dances, and local crafts. It’s the best time to see the village alive with color and charm. Also, Noche de las Brujas during Halloween transform this little Alpujarras village into a magical world of spells, traditions, and mystical celebrations under the starlit sky. ✨🧙‍♀️🌙

Surrounded by the rugged beauty of the Sierra Nevada, Soportújar is ideal for hikers and nature lovers. Explore ancient irrigation channels, forested paths, and panoramic lookouts on trails like the GR7.

Soportújar is not just a village—it’s a journey through history, myth, and magic. Whether you’re a lover of legends, a curious traveler, or a seeker of peace, this enchanted corner of the Alpujarras is sure to leave a lasting impression. This is a great trip for kids!!!

O Sel Ling - A Touch of the Spiritual

Above the village sits O Sel Ling, a Buddhist retreat visited and blessed by the Dalai Lama. It's a tranquil, sacred space with mountain views—perfect for meditation or mindful hiking.

Perched high in the mountains at 1600 meters above Soportújar, hidden among pines and silence, lies O Sel Ling—a Tibetan Buddhist retreat whose name means “Place of Clear Light.” It’s not just a location, but an atmosphere: calm, still, and gently sacred.

Founded in 1980 with the blessing of the Dalai Lama, O Sel Ling sits 1,600 meters above sea level, overlooking the valleys of the Alpujarras. The site was chosen for its peace, elevation, and natural beauty—perfect for meditation and spiritual retreat.

Visitors are welcomed by a giant prayer wheel, slowly turning in the wind. Nearby stands a white stupa, circled by pilgrims and wanderers in silence. The site is scattered with serene statues: Green Tara, the female Buddha of compassion; Medicine Buddha, housed in a small stone temple; and the Wheel of Life, carved with symbols of samsara.

Though quiet, the retreat is active. It offers group meditations, solitary retreat cabins, and open spaces for reflection. Monastic buildings blend into the hillside, and walking paths lead to hidden lookouts with panoramic views across the Sierra Nevada.

This is not a tourist attraction in the traditional sense. There are no ticket booths, cafés, or guided tours. Instead, O Sel Ling invites stillness. Visitors move slowly, speak softly, and breathe deeply. Even a brief visit—just an afternoon—can leave an impression of peace.

Hiking routes link the retreat with nearby villages like Bubión and Soportújar, making it a natural stop for those walking the Poqueira Gorge. The journey upward is quiet and steep; the reward is intangible but lasting.

In a world full of noise, O Sel Ling remains a rare space where silence speaks, and where mountains and mantras meet.

Highly recommend their retreats in this serene place, or just visiting for a day or joining a retreat. ( see https://oseling.com).

Pampaneira: The Alpujarra Village of Colorful Carpets

Continue the main road from O Sei Ling to Pampaneira. Tucked into the rugged folds of the Poqueira Gorge in the Alpujarras, Pampaneira is a whitewashed mountain village.

Pampaneira dates back to Moorish times, with its narrow streets and terraced farms reflecting its Berber roots. After the Reconquista, it was repopulated by Christians following the Alpujarras Uprising (1568–1571), when many Moriscos were expelled.
Once an agricultural hub, today it’s known for its artisan crafts, historic charm, and mountain setting.

Pampaneira might be small, but it knows how to feed you well. Local restaurants serve up THE BEST patatas a lo pobre—soft-fried potatoes with onions, peppers, and garlic, often topped with a farm egg and local meatschorizo. Pair that with a simple tomato salad, dressed only with olive oil, sea salt, and herbs, and you’ve got a perfect mountain meal.

Prices are a bit higher than you'd expect for rural Spain, especially in the more tourist-frequented spots—but the quality and setting make it worth the splurge.

Carpets and Craftsmanship

This village is also known for its handmade jarapa rugs—colorful, durable, and woven using traditional looms. Shops line the streets offering good-value textiles, pottery, and soaps. You can often see artisans at work, and many products are made just steps from where they're sold. The carpets are in so many gorgeous colours and sizes, its just a must have! The prices are very good and and lets not bargain, they are handwoven and absolutely stunning.

The Story of the Fountain

In the heart of the village, beneath flowered balconies and shaded arches, flows the Fuente de San Antonio. Local legend says that if you drink from its waters, you’ll soon find a partner—or return to Pampaneira in search of one. Whether it's the altitude or the magic, many visitors do just that.

A Sweet Surprise - The Chocolate Museum, For those with a sweet tooth, Abuela Ili’s Chocolate Workshop is a must. This small chocolate “museum” and shop offers artisan-made bars infused with everything from orange zest to chili. You can taste samples, watch the chocolate being made, and learn a bit about local cocoa traditions—all with a view of the mountains. Prices are a bit on the higher size but its worth it.

Poqueira River Pools and Waterfalls

Below Pampaneira, in the Poqueira Gorge, there are small natural rock pools and waterfall-fed basins along the river. These aren’t official swim spots, but people often splash, wade, or dip their feet in cooler months.
Walk 20–30 min from the village downriver toward the old hydro station.

⚠️ The water is cold year-round, the rocks are slippery, and it’s not monitored—so caution is essential.

Capileira & Bubión: Where Berber Chimneys Crown the Sierra

Clinging to the slopes of the Poqueira Gorge, Capileira and Bubión are two of the most picturesque villages in the Alpujarras. With whitewashed walls, steep cobbled lanes, and sweeping views of the Sierra Nevada, they offer a perfect mix of tradition, hiking, and quiet beauty.

One of the first things you'll notice are the strange-looking flat roofs and quirky chimneys, known locally as terraosand tinaos. These features are remnants of Berber influence from North Africa, with flat clay roofs designed to catch winter rain and tall, rounded chimneys capped like mushrooms. No two are alike, and they give the villages their fairy-tale character.

Walking Between Villages

A beautiful walking trail links Pampaneira, Bubión, and Capileira, winding through orchards, wild herbs, and stunning mountain views. The path between Bubión and Capileira takes just 30–45 minutes, perfect for a relaxed day hike.

Capileira also serves as a base for more serious hikers, with trails leading to Mulhacén and Laguna Hondera, some of the highest and wildest points in mainland Spain.

Things to Do:  Bubión Ethnographic Museum – A small but insightful stop to learn about traditional mountain life.Local Weaving & Craft Shops – Handmade jarapas, natural soaps, ceramics, and wool products fill cozy village shops.Cafés & Restaurants – Enjoy a drink with a view in Capileira or a quiet lunch in Bubión’s shaded plazas. Taste the Alpujarra – Sample jamón, goat cheese, mountain honey, and herbal teas. Admire the Architecture – The distinctive roofs, chimneys, and overhanging tinaos are a photographer’s delight.

Just an hour and a half from the beaches of Nerja, the Alpujarras feel like another world—quieter, older, and deeper. The air carries the scent of woodsmoke and mountain herbs. Witches linger in Soportújar’s corners, prayer flags flutter above O Sel Ling, and Berber chimneys rise from flat rooftops like silent sentinels. Meals are simple but full of soul, the paths are steep but grounding, and time moves with the rhythm of stone and sky. It’s not far in distance—but it’s far in feeling. And that’s the beauty of it.